Saturday, 8 December 2007

Navidad is everywhere

We hope everyone is doing well. We really appreciate your updates and notes either through email or as comments on this page. Cuenca is beginning to feel like home. The streets are familiar, we have found a favourite lunch spot, and we are conversing with our neighbours – it is amazing how much better we can communicate after just three days of Spanish lessons! Our Spanish school has become an instant community for us. We are always welcome there, and are encouraged to make it our home away from home. The two women who run the school are amazingly organized and helpful, and they are always offering us tea and snacks, which we love. They are also helping us with our apartment hunt. We are hoping to move in to one on Monday or Tuesday, for a month. If we stay for a month it sounds like there will be opportunities for us to teach English and/or trade English for Spanish either at our school or one of the other language schools in the area.
Although the weather makes it hard to believe Christmas is around the corner, you can´t avoid the Navidad enthusiasm here in Cuenca, with celebrations happening on every street corner, day and night. Navidad, as you can imagine for this country that is 90% Catholic, is a very important and religious holiday. Christmas decorations are being sold throughout the markets, and the churches, parks and streets are decorated with lights and nativity scenes, but no Santa Claus to be seen! The most interesting celebrations that we have witnessed, thus far, are firework shows outside of Churches, after their evening services. People love fireworks here, and they are ignited from 7 in the morning until late at night for a variety of occasions. At this time of year they are mostly for Navidad. Last night as we wondered the streets after dinner, we caught two firework displays outside nearby Churches, in fact we had to duck and run for cover during both shows, as random rockets of colour exploded in the streets. It was fantastic, hilarious, and a little frightening. Here are some pictures to prove it!
The first one was a high-end display, with spinning wheels, rockets, cheery bombs, shooting sparklers from every direction. At one point it was so intense all the church goers (in their long dresses and suits) and the on lookers (including us) had to run around street corners and into nearby shops!
As we walked home, we found a second church gearing up for their display. This display looked a little less extravagant, but just as interesting, as it was a papier-mâché cow with a snake like tail completely covered in rockets and sparklers! As we waited and listened to music, they had playing out of the church, we were offered a lovely warm and very potent lime drink. We drank it down in a couple gulps (they needed to keep passing around the glasses) and took it as a sign that we were welcome to stay and watch. Eventually the show began with one man hoisting the cow above his head and lighting the tail, he then started dancing up and down the streets as the cow exploded and whistled fireworks into the sky, into cars and shops, and yes, into the crowd, and again we all ducked, took pictures, laughed and cheered!
We are pretty sure this is just the beginning of the festivities this Christmas season!!

Monday, 3 December 2007

Spanish School

Early this morning, we walked to the tourist information centre and obtained a list of places to learn spanish in Cuenca. From the list, we selected 4 or 5 different schools that we felt met our needs and mapped out a route through the city to visit each location. We ended up selecting the first school we went to, because it offered the best price and warmest personal touch. There is a really good deal to live with a local family for $24/day and it appears that there may be english teaching opportunities as well. We are starting individual classes in the afternoon on Wednesday of this week for $6/hour at the following spanish school:

Amauta Fundacion Spanish School
Hermano Miguel 7-48 y Sucre
PO Box 01.01.166
Cuenca, Ecuador
Tel: (593-7) 2846 206 / 285 3671
(this may be a good place to contact us)

An evening in Old Town Cuenca

Yesterday, we took a stroll through the Old Town core of Cuenca. The evening was beautifully lit by the setting sun, the temperature went well with a sweater, and the city streets were quiet (due to the day of rest). It was a great time to take some pictures and to wander around. We first visited the Parque Calderon (top left) where a crowd had gathered to watch a handful of young people brake-dancing inside a small gazebo. It was rather impressive. We passed a church with its doors wide open (top right) and then wandered down towards the Rio Tomebamba where there are paths and grassy areas. Some of the houses overlooking the river were quite interesting, with various levels and balconies (bottom left). We crossed the river on a foot bridge and reached a recreational park. People were playing ¨futbol¨, running, swinging, and a group of city workers were setting up a very large nativity scene with lights and glitter. Inside the park, there was a funny statue that we found to be oddly out of proportion. We took a photo from behind the jogging character with the setting sun in the background (bottom right). It was time for dinner and a small fast-food restaurant, that we had eyed all day for some reason, won us over for dinner. Mary had a drink, eggs, beans, and rice for $1 and I had a hamburger, fries, and a drink for $2 (again, we managed to break the bank). We went to bed after a game of crib, and looked forward to our next day in Cuenca.

Sunday, 2 December 2007

Cuenca, Ecuador - Hostal Switch

We awoke early this morning and found another place to lay our heads. We will be staying at the following hostal in Cuenca, Ecuador for a few days while we try to arrange long term accomodations (1 month) and establish where we will be studying spanish:

Hostal Santa Fe
Antonio Borrero 5-57
Cuenca, Ecuador

Cuenca, Ecuador

We arrvied in Cuenca last night by bus from Loja. The view from the hostal (right) overlooks the San Francisco Market. Unfortunately, the accomodations were not as pleasant as the view from the sixth-floor patio. We stayed at the following hostal for one night:

El Monasterio
Padre Aguirre 724
Tel: 282-4457

With All My Senses

The day after our waterfall trek, I went for a hike with a few new freinds to a reserve on the other side of the Vilcabamba Valley, called the Rumi-Wilco Ecological Reserve. This organization has preserved this interesting and diverse area, and has also developed a trail system that contains great labels describing plant species and facts about the different ecosystems, as well as a handy map book. I was pretty excited, as you can imagine! The map book began with some great advise, "when enjoying nature talking is not needed as much, so please enjoy the area with all your senses in peace" (paraphrased only slightly). As we went up and down slopes and gullies, walked along ridges and riviers, I stopped to learn a little about this biologically rich area, watch birds and butterflies I have never seen before, and enjoy the views of the valley. The funniest part of the park was their claims to the biggest Kapok tree and the biggest San Padro Cactus (seen here) in the region - I wonder how they would ever know, I guess the same way Wawa knows they have the biggest goose?! When I returned to Izhcayluma, I caught up with Phil (who had been working hard on his journal), went for a swim, had another amazing meal, played a competitive game of darts with our new friend and barman, Cyril, and eventually headed off to bed with sore legs, a little too much sun, and a wide grin.

Prolonged stay in Vilcabamba

It has been a while since we last published a post. We had a hard time finding a good internet connection while we were in Vilcabamba and we decided to wait until we arrvied in Cuenca find another internet location. To tell you the truth, we enjoyed Vilcabamba so much that we ended up staying five days instead of our initially planned two. Our hostal had a lovely view and great food. Hiking, biking, and enjoying the outdoors was so easily accessed and we managed to remain under budget our entire stay (hard to leave). One afternoon, Mary and I hiked for nearly 8 hours to a waterfall in the southern highlands. The hardest part of the walk was finding the starting point. The hostal provided maps for us, but they are still currently a work-in-process. We ended up walking through coffee bean farms and banana plantations, and were generally off-track. From the sounds of it though, we were not the only people who lost their bearings on the way to the trail. It was quite hillarious. By the time we reached the beginning of the hike, we had already walked up and down for 4 hours. We ate a small lunch and climbed to a point approximately 2000 metres above sea level, constantly stopping to take pictures and to enjoy the view. There were lots and lots of cows/bulls that stood in the middle of the path, high in the moutains staring at us, mooing and grunting, making it difficult for us to pass by. We eventually reached the waterfall in 2 hours. The water dropped about 20 metres and formed a very small pool (not an ideal place for a dip). We did however drink some water from nearby springs, and that was refreshing. We walked back to the hostal and ate some traditonal stroganoff before heading to bed. We really enjoyed our stay and would recommend it to anyone visiting southern Ecuador. We are also happy to move on and to expericance less tourists and more of the culture that surrounds us.