Friday, 11 April 2008

Wine and Pisco Tour in Ica

Ica is known for itss grapes, so it only seemed right to go on a wine and pisco tour on our first full day here. The landscape is quite remarkable, having small oasis towns, like Ica, surrounded by miles of sand dunes. It hardly every rains becuase it is a desert, yet they are still able to grow and export many veggies and fruits, and produce some fine wines and even finer piscos. We started early on our tour, tasting our first wine by 10:30AM. We had three fascinating tours, one at an industrial wine and pisco vineyard, and two at artisan vineyards. We were encouraged to try everything, from white, to red, to straight pisco to pisco con leche. After the tour, we spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool and enjoyed a late supper at the hotel. We could feel a very enjoyable routine forming for the rest of the week; morning tours, afternoon swims and of course, lovely meals con pisco sours, wine and beer.

Ica, Peru

After one night in Lima, we travelled along the coast, approximately 400km south, to Ica, Peru. On August 15, 2007 an extremely powerful earthquake hit the region which caused incredible damage to infrastructure, much of which is still very evident. We stayed five nights at the following lovely hotel outside of Ica:

El Carmelo Hotel and Hacienda
Jr. Tenería # 125
Ayacucho, Perú
Tel. 0051-064-326028

Wednesday, 9 April 2008

The Cultural Capital, Cusco, Peru

After our beautiful day at Machu Picchu, we spent two more days in Cusco, enjoying this high altitude city. We spent our days wondering around the city, shopping, and of course eating and drinking (wine and pisco sours)!! Among other activities, Graham and Phil enjoyed an afternoon at the Inca Museo, the ladies enjoyed a traditional weaving museo, and we all took part in a traditional meal with musical, dancing show for our closing Cusco Banquet. At one point in the evening all the ladies were up dancing in the show, with great style, of course. We spent one more night at our Cusco Hostel, Rumi Punku, a lovely, traditional hotel, before heading back to Lima. Altogether we were in the beautiful Sacred Valley for eight wonderful days. And despite some altitude sickness and some tingling, we had a full schedule and saw many amazing sites. We were also extremely lucky to have primarily sunny days, although we are looking forward to hitting the coast and the summer weather, for our second week of adventure!

Rumi Punku, Cusco, Peru

After a very lovely and memorable visit to Machu Picchu. We all returned to Peru's cultural capital for another three nights to visit museums, explore the centre, and to relax before flying back to Lima. We stayed at the following hostal:

HOSTAL RUMI PUNKU
Choquechaca No.339
Cusco, Peru
Tel. 00 5184 221102

Monday, 7 April 2008

We're Engaged!!

Here is the happy family at Machu Picchu, and Phil and I moments after our engagement!! It has been so wonderful to have our parents here, to be a part of our engagement and to travel with us for our last couple of weeks here in Peru. That's right, the other big news is that we are coming home!! We will be in Ontario from the 15th to the 21st and then back in Nova Scotia. We both are very excited to get back and feel very fortunate to have had five months of adventure here in South America.

Phil: It certainly was a beautiful day and I was very pleased to have had both sets of parents there with us. I was quite nervous, but pleased when everything had unfolded as planned. I had bought the ring for Mary back in Buenos Aires (it was in my guitar case for nearly 2 months). I'm glad I was able to keep it a secret until then. See you when we get home.

Friday, 4 April 2008

Machu Picchu

We visited Machu Picchu on April 2nd, a day full of magic and beauty, which I will never forget. I had been looking forward to this day since arriving in South America and therefore built up the day in my head, needless to say my expectations were high. And before telling you the story, I can't help but reveal that every expectation was exceeded and more.
Karen, Graham, Phil and I decided to head to Machu Picchu for the sunrise, which meant having breakfast and catching the bus before 5:30AM. We made it to a very foggy Machu Picchu at 6:00AM, and although we did not see a sunrise, we did see the clouds lift and float over the most spectacular ruins. At 7:00AM, we headed in different directions, Karen and Graham hiked to Inkapunka, a trek towards the south, and Phil and I to Wayna Picchu, the mountain towering over Machu Picchu in the North. While on our hikes, my mom and dad arrived just as the fog cleared and hiked to the Funary for the famous view of the ruins. Phil and I hiked up for about an hour, which gave us lots of time on the top to watch Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains reveal themselves. It was most spectacular. We couldn't have asked for a better day, as far as weather was concerend. Phil, as we walked down the precarious rock steps in fact kept repeating, "it is a beautiful day," and he kept on repeating it as we met our parents, who were waiting for us at the enterance of Wayna Picchu. They all had wonderful mornings, and all six of us were thrilled to be now sharing the magic of Machu Picchu together. We sat on an ancient wall, looking at the ruins, telling our stories of the mornings activities, while Phil kept repeating¨"it is a beautiful day." And then, all of a sudden, Phil was facing us all, and announced how happy he was we were all sharing it together, and then he reached into his pocket and at the same moment knelt down infront of me, and asked me to marry him. All I could do was wrap my arms around him and say yes. So, in the middle of Machu Picchu we created quite a scene; parents crying and hugging, Phil and I embracing, groups of people around us cheering. For the rest of the day, I floated around Machu Picchu, admiring the sites and my finger. Throughout the day at the ruins and back in town, we were congradulated by strangers, who had either witnessed the event or heard of it. At around 3:00PM, we met for pizza and pisco sours to celebrate the day, and then we headed to the train for our extended four hour journey back to Cusco (the train had some power difficulties at one point, so we were delayed, but entertained by wonderful singers in our car).

Aguas Calientes, Peru

After a quick sleep in Cusco, we headed to the train station for our four hour journey on the Machu Picchu VistaDome train, which took us to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. It was a lovely, very comfortable, journey through the Sacred Valley, with dozens of beautiful picture postcard moments. We arrived in Aguas Calientes at 10:00AM, found our hostal and rooms, with views of the roaring Rio Vilcanota.

Hostal Continental
Av. Imperio de los Incas 165
Aguas Calientes, Peru
Tel. 211065

That afternoon we went to the hot springs, located just outside of town, to warm up and relax before our big day in Machu Picchu. We had an early dinner at Indio Feliz, a busy and flavourful spot. We headed to bed early, anticipating another 4:30AM wake-up call.

Pisac, Peru

Pisac is a lovely little town full of beautifully colourful Peru scenary, both in the famous market and the Andean lanscape. After a lovely breakfast on Sunday morning with Mercades, our new friend and host at Paz y Luz, we all headed into town to take part in their busy Sunday Market, which is both for tourists and local villagers, who come in from the surrounding hillsides to trade their goods. I think our Moms had the most fun, although I have to say, both Graham and Scott got right into the bargaining and fun of the it all. We, of course, picked up some amazing crafts and jewels. In the afternoon, we headed for the hills, for a trek to a famous Inca ruins. It was a beautiful day when we started, which made the steep, thin steps around the moutain’s edge doable. Once we made it to the ruins, we had little time to wonder around before the sky was taken over by dark clouds. So as we walked back, thankfully on an easier path, we experienced some rain and an amazing hail storm. The second natrual wonder for our parents, who all experienced an earthquake in the Lima airport, on their way to Cusco. Once back to the road, our faithful taxi driver, Larry, was there to quickly get us back to Paz y Luz, to dry off and warm up (we were soaked)! That evening, we headed back to town for dinner and another Pisco Sour. We have decided to take in upon ourselves to test Pisco Sours around the region, and so far this Pisac Pisco was the best bang or the buck (5 soles). The next morning we headed to Cusco to start our preperations for our big and much anticipated trip to Macchu Picchu!

Paz y Luz, Pisac, Peru

We all arrived at Paz y Luz in the morning on Saturday, March 29. All rooms had comfortable beds, a private bathroom with a skylight, and good showers. There was a glass/stone breakfast room with mountain views. We listened to the sounds of the flowing sacred river and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings for three days.


Paz y Luz
Pisac, Peru
Tel. +51-84-203204

Parents in Peru!

We woke early on Saturday, March 29th, both too excited to sleep and with a list of errands to do, before picking our parents up from the airport! We had an early breakfast by the fire and headed out in seperate directions to pick up train tickets, print schedules and purchase our Machu Picchu tickets, before the arrival of Karen and Graham, Susanne and Scott at 10:30AM!!! We decided to surprise them at the airport (we told them we would meet them in Pisac), and I think it is safe to say they were thrilled to see us. After many hugs, we hopped into two Pisac taxis and enjoyed an hour ride through the Sacred Valley to our Pisac retreat, Paz y Luz B&B.

Los Niños Hotels in Cusco

Our second night in Cusco was spent in a very special/interesting hotel. Jolanda van den Berg, from the Netherlands, is the founder of Niños Hotels. Both Niños Hotels are in Cusco, Peru. The profits from the hotels are used to give 500 extremely neglected children from Cusco a hot meal on a daily basis, a warm shower, medical and dental assitance, homework and sports lessons.

The Niños Hotels offer two-star service and are situated within walking distance of the Plaza de Armas. They are established in wholly renovated old buildings of about 300 and 150 years respectively. The Niños Hotels each have a large sunny patio and breakfast and lunch room where homemade bread is served.


Niños Hotel
Calle Meloc 442
Cusco, Peru
Tel. 084 231424

Cusco, Peru

We arrived safely in Cusco, Peru at 11:30PM on March 27, after another bizare bus trip. We had arranged transportation through our hotel in Copacabana (La Cupula). From Copacabana to Cusco it takes approximately 12 hours by bus and our ticket was US$15 in total. We switched buses three times (all different companies). From Copacabana to Puno it took 2 hours by bus; this portion costed US$11. The remaining portion to Cusco took 10 hours and costed US$4. Makes sense eh? To make a long story short, our hotel ripped us off! Advice: don't let travel agents or bus companies book long legs of travel for you that involve switching buslines, they will almost always over-charge. Upon arriving in Cusco, we stayed at the following hostal for one night:

Hostal
Familiar
Calle Saphy 661
Cusco, Peru
Tel. 239353

Thursday, 3 April 2008

Isla de la Sol, Bolivia

We arrived on the north side of Isla de la Sol early on Wedensday, March 26th, after a two hour boat ride from Copacabana. This Island and Lake Titicaca are central to Inca spirituality and history, as it is believed that the sun and moon rose from the water and was the birth place of all creation. We started off on a guided trek on an ancient Inca road, which ended at a beautiful and remote Inca ruin. Here we learned of the Inca creation story, which was decribed by our guide, who used the amazing rock formations and landscapes as visual aids. Now on our own, we enjoyed a little picnic in the ruins and hiked to the south end of the island. This was a spectacular trek that followed the top terraces of the slopping hills down to the water. After about three hours we arrived in Yumani. Here we found a hostel for the night, and an amazing restuarant to watch the sunset on their terrece (with thier llama), while playing cribbage and drinking a cold Bolivian Pilsener. After the sun went down we went into the restaurant for a lovely candle light dinner (they did not have electricity). Around 9 we found our way back to our hostel in the dark, we went to bed in this quiet town. Since we watched the sunset on the Island of the Sun, we thought we should watch the sunrise, which was a brilliant display of colours over the Andes. While we sat quietly watching, we also witnessed the morning ritual, of some of the town’s people, which is walking down the steep hill with two to six donkeys and dozens of water jugs, to then fill them , strap them to either side of the donkey and assend the hill, providing water for the enter town.
We visited another Inca ruin that morning, after arranging to be picked up by the small ferry boat at 10:30. We arrived back in Copacabana in time to catch our bus to Cusco. Before jumping on our bus, however, we ran into our family friends from Edmonton, the McPhee’s! Jennifer and Rob were heading south, so we only had time for a quick chat, in the middle of bus loading confussion, but it was wonderful to see familar faces!